Pump to increase water pressure

If you are tired of the weak water pressure in the faucet, and you want to solve this problem, then you can immediately suggest installing a pump to increase the water pressure. It can be said that this is the simplest solution, however, it is not possible in all cases. For example, what to do if in your city or microdistrict the water is turned off on schedule? The pump does not completely solve the problem of water scarcity. In this case, it becomes necessary to create an additional source of water. Or, at least, then you should purchase equipment for backing up a small amount of water.

If you have decided everything and in your case the installation of the pump is the ideal solution, it is important to familiarize yourself with all the subtleties of choosing this device. However, first of all, it is necessary to understand the causes of low pressure. Although the main focus of this article is the choice of a pump, we will consider this issue with you in a complex and wider way. In particular, we will examine what the optimal pressure should be in the faucet for normal operation of household appliances (washing machine, dishwasher), ease of use of sanitary appliances, and more.

Water pressure - what it should be

In general, pressure is measured in atmospheres or bars. So, 1 bar is equal to 0.99 atmospheres. If we are talking about apartments in multi-storey private houses, then there are norms that regulate the level of pressure on the entrances to the house and the entrance to each apartment. These regulations are described in SNIP 2.04.02-84 and SNIP 2.04.01-85.

The table shows the pressure in different areas, as well as in the apartment and house:

For home plumbing and meeting daily needs, 2 atm of pressure is enough. However, there are exceptions. For a shower cabin with a hydromassage function, as well as for a bathroom with a jacuzzi, pressure up to 4 atm is required.

Some may believe that the more pressure there is in the system, the better. But there is also a reverse side of the coin. If the pressure is too high, for example, from 6.5 atm and more, fittings on pipes and other connections may not be able to withstand. Faucets, faucets and other plumbing equipment may also be damaged.

How to determine the water pressure

Given the data above, it is important to be able to determine the water pressure at home. This task is simplified if there is already a measuring equipment - a pressure gauge at the entrance of the water supply system to your apartment, as seen in the photo:

However, as practice shows, rarely who has such equipment. For this reason, in this section, we offer you several methods for determining the level of water pressure.

Stationary gauge - the optimal solution

If you are installing or replacing a pipeline, then you can install a stationary pressure gauge to measure the water pressure in the system. In this case, you will not need to resort to improvised means.

Ideally, a pressure gauge will be installed near each plumbing fixture. However, from an aesthetic point of view, this is a clear disadvantage. Plus, this is quite a costly pleasure.

If you follow the practice, the pressure gauge is installed immediately at the entrance to the apartment. With this up to the counter. Why? It's very simple: the filter, the check valve and the meter itself are already knocking down the pressure. Therefore, if you are interested in the indicator directly at the entrance, the pressure gauge is installed this way.

But remember, on all consumers the pressure will be different, as it falls, passing through many barriers in the pipeline. The following elements most affect the decrease in water pressure:

• places with a change in pipe diameter;
• installation of control and stop valves;
• filters;
• tees;
• turns;
• hoses (on the toilet bowl, in the shower stall, etc.).

Considering all this, the indicator of water pressure at the entrance to the apartment and at the exit from a particular consumer will be different. If you do not have a pressure gauge installed at all, then below we provide for you 2 measurement methods for which a portable pressure gauge and a hose are required.

Video: stationary pressure gauge operation

Pressure gauge in the shower for testing

One of the simplest methods for measuring pressure is to install a pressure gauge instead of a shower head. To do this, you need to prepare the following:

• thread extension;
• water pressure gauge up to 6 atm;
• adapter to the thread?
• fum-tape.

All these elements among themselves should be connected. To do this, fasten the metal gauge to the gauge, and after the transition to? thread. To seal the thread necessarily use fum-tape. It is important to make a tight connection, otherwise it will not work to make accurate measurements.

After that, unscrew the watering can in the shower stall and fasten our construction with a pressure gauge instead. It is important to be careful not to lose the sealing gum in the nut from under the watering can, it looks like this:

Now you can open the tap and measure the water pressure. At the same time it is important to perform one operation: in order to avoid air in the shower, switch the water supply from the shower to the tap several times. The air will come out and you will be able to find out the pressure.

But here you should not rush to conclusions. The fact is that water enters the shower through a complex piping system. Moreover, it is known that the more turns the water passes and the thinner the pipe (the diameter of the hose is much smaller than the diameter of the entrance pipe to the apartment), the stronger the pressure drops. Therefore, in this way you will be able to find out only the pressure indicator on this sanitary device. If such an operation is performed, for example, near a washing machine, then the indicator will differ slightly, since the diameter of the hose is larger than that of the shower.

This method is convenient because you can determine if there is a blockage in the pipe. For example, you notice that the water pressure in the bathroom is good, and the kitchen is relatively low. By installing the pressure gauge and comparing the indicators, you can easily determine on which section of the pipeline there is a blockage.

Immediately before disconnecting the shower head from the hose or dismantling another plumbing fixture, do not forget to turn off the water. Otherwise, you can not escape the flooding.

Video: homemade pressure gauge

Using a hose to calculate pressure

If not accurate, approximate pressure measurements can be made using a conventional 2 meter long hose. This method is mainly used only to measure the pressure at the tap water outlet.

An important condition is the use of a transparent hose. This will make the necessary measurements.

The measurement process is as follows:

Having all the measurements, you should perform some calculations using the formula:

P = Ratm? H0 H1

In this formula:

• P - pressure in the pipeline at the outlet of the valve, measured in atm;
• Ratm - pressure in the hose until the opening of the valve, measured in atmospheres;
• H0 - the length of the hose before the test starts from zero;
• H1 - the length of the hose between the tube and the established water level.

But remember that such calculations will be close to reality; more precisely, pressure can be measured using the methods described above.

Causes of low water pressure in the water supply

Before taking any action, it is important to determine the cause of the low pressure. In some cases, the purchase and installation of pumping equipment will not completely solve the problem. The reasons may be varied:

• water leak on the waterway;
• overgrowing of internal diameter of pipes;
• water filter clogged;
• defective tap or other stop valves.

Often the cause of low pressure is poor service to the water supplier. For example, utilities deliberately can shut down the operation of one or more pumps in order to save. As a result, the consumer receives water, however, its pressure leaves much to be desired.

Remarkable is the fact that, according to the regulation of SNIPA No. 2.04.02 of 1984, as well as State Decree No. 307 of 2006, the minimum water pressure for a one-story house is 1 atm. If the house has 2 floors, then 2.4 atm.

Now we will consider several methods, how to increase the water pressure, and also consider in detail the option with the installation of pumping equipment.

Video: causes of low water pressure in the pipeline

This video tells you that the water pressure can be low due to a clogged aerator:

Here you will learn that the water pressure may drop due to a clogged filter for rough cleaning:

And here it is told why there can be a weak pressure due to the check valve:

How to increase pressure

To assume that installing the pump, this is an absolute panacea for the problem of low pressure, would be absurd. This option is possible only in one case - when water flows into the pipeline without fail. With constant shutdowns of water, if we are talking about the city highway, pump idling can lead to its breakdown. If there is no water, the pump simply overheats, and the motor burns. Water is a natural cooler. However, there is a way out - installation of special automation, for example:

• relay for protection against dry running;
• water level sensor;
• water flow control.

This equipment is designed to turn off the pump in the absence of water. As a result, the pump will be fully protected from possible damage.

Video: protect the pump from running dry

If you live in a block of flats, installing a pump to increase pressure significantly impairs the quality of the water supply at your neighbors. To prevent this, some measures can be taken. At the same time, solutions for an apartment and a private house should be different. Why? Now see for yourself.

The nuances of installing the pumping station

In this case, the centrifugal pump of self-suction type is an essential component. This equipment will allow even at zero pressure level to raise water from a certain depth to the entrance. At the same time sufficient water pressure will be provided.

Additionally, this station is equipped with a pressure switch. Due to this, when the pressure in the pipeline decreases, the pump automatically switches off / on. Plus, in the storage tank will be created a stock of water under sufficient pressure. It is consumed only in cases where there will be its absence in the highway. As a result, this installation provides a small supply of water and the necessary pressure. But this method is relevant only for private homes.

Consider this example: as you know, on the upper floors of the house, tenants most often have a water shortage problem. If they start to solve it in the aforementioned way, then soon the whole house, at least among the tenants, will have a struggle for a stream of water. As a result, this may result in fines from utilities for you. After all, the installation of pumping equipment without the appropriate permits is prohibited. Plus, installing a pump will cause an imbalance throughout the line. Also keep in mind that self-priming pumps have technical limitations. They are able to raise the water to a height of about 8 meters. So, if you live on the third floor, it will work with a stretch, not to mention the floors above.

Video: installation and launch of the pumping station

Installation of backup water - how to implement

This system is most effective when you turn off the water in time. The installed tank is filled with cold water. All subsequent water flow will be carried out from it. It is equipped with a pump and other equipment. At the expense of it the sufficient pressure of water in all house or apartment is provided. Plus, this solves the problem of turning off the water, you will have it round the clock. It will not be only in the event that electricity is turned off.

Installation of backup water is easier to implement in a private home. The apartment is quite problematic to allocate space for the installation of reserve capacity. Is that you have many rooms, and you can allocate one for such needs, or you live on the top floor and the capacity can be installed in the attic. Such a solution will not cause an imbalance in the plumbing riser.

To implement the project, you need to find a suitable capacity. Most often used for this plastic tank. Today you can find models of different displacement. The choice of tank volume will depend on the estimated water consumption in your family. For a family of 3-4 people enough capacity to 500 liters.

Video: backup water in the apartment

Place to install the tank

For apartments, a suitable place could be a balcony / loggia, a storage room, a bathroom and other rooms where there will be free access to it. If you live on the last or penultimate floor, then it makes sense to consider the option of installing a tank in the attic. However, in this case, the container must be carefully insulated and concerned about safety measures so that it is not stolen.

If the backup drum and pumping equipment is installed inside the apartment, then it is important that the pump is noiseless. Otherwise, it will annoy you and create discomfort to your neighbors.

As for the private house, everything is much simpler. The chosen place can be a basement or other technical room. The main condition is that it is heated.

Installation of storage tank

So, in addition to the storage tank, you need to purchase a pump, preferably a silent one. In this category, you can find equipment such trademarks:

• Grundfos MQ;
• 'S;
• Pedrollo 3 CPm and the like.

It is also necessary to install automation, which necessarily includes a pump protection relay against dry running. This relay will signal the pump on / off. Thus, the pumping equipment will be protected from breakage.

To prevent the pump from turning on with minimal water flow, the system can be equipped with a hydraulic accumulator. Its volume will directly affect the frequency of switching on / off the pump.

So, the whole scheme of the backup storage tank will work according to this principle: as soon as the water in the faucet or mixer turns on, the pump turns on and gives out sufficient pressure. If the water storage capacity is exhausted, the relay sends a signal to turn off the pump. As a result, the operation of the entire system will be safe and economical.

Video: features of installation and assembly of storage capacity

As for the barrel, it is necessary to complete it with a float. As soon as it fills, the float shuts off the water supply. The system completely resembles the principle of operation of the flushing cistern on the toilet. A coarse water filter is also installed. It is mounted at the entrance of the highway to the house, as well as in front of the pump. Thanks to this, no connections will penetrate into the storage tank, as well as into the pump, which can damage it.

You can install an additional filtering system, this is optional. But keep in mind, the presence of filters will slightly reduce the pressure.

Also, the backup water storage system is equipped with shut-off valves, non-return valves, necessary fittings and other components. You can find out more about the connection by looking at the schemes presented in the article.

Schemes: connection of a tank of reserve water storage

Pumping station on the entire riser

Another option that allows you to increase the water pressure in the apartment is the installation in the basement of a powerful pumping station, a large storage tank and a hydroaccumulator. In this case, the necessary pressure is maintained throughout the riser in the stairwell, and water will be around the clock. Although this solution seems the best solution, it is extremely difficult to implement. Not all of your neighbors will agree to produce such large-scale work, due to financial considerations. And for some, such as the elderly, and such pressure of water in the tap is enough.

The principle of operation of the protection relay dry run

The relay is designed to control the water pressure in the system. If the pressure drops below the set point, the relay is activated and the supply circuit is broken. The pump is turned off and thus protected against dry running. One of the main elements of the relay - the membrane. Directly she responds to the contact group and pressure. If the water pressure decreases, the membrane presses on the contact group, turning off the power as a result.

Based on the factory settings, the relay can react to pressure in the range from 0.1 to 0.6 atm. At this pressure, the relay is activated and prevents the pump from running dry.

Video: dry run relay

Relay and hydroaccumulator: is it possible to combine into one system

If you use a hydroaccumulator in your system, the relay will not provide the pump with 100% protection against dry running. This is due to the feature of the system. The relay is installed in front of the accumulator and pressure switch. There is usually a check valve between the protection and the pump. As a result, the membrane inside the relay is always under pressure, which is created by a hydroaccumulator.

For clarity, let's look at the following situation: there is a small supply of water in the accumulator, while there is no water in the well / reserve capacity. Moreover, the lower threshold of pressure is usually set in the region of 1.4–1.6 atm, the membrane in the relay does not work, since in fact there is pressure in the system. This will cause the pump to run dry. The pump will turn off only in two cases: when water is used up from the accumulator, or when the pump is burned. If this happens when there is water in the system, then there is no danger. Another thing when this happens in the absence of water. For example, at night the tank was drained, hands were washed, the tank filled with water. In this case, the pump, of course, turns on, but there is no shutdown signal. In the morning, the pump is likely to be broken.

Considering this, if the system is equipped with a hydroaccumulator, it is preferable to use other devices for protection against dry running.

Video: why do you need a hydroaccumulator, how to connect it and calculate

From this video, you can learn about the role of the hydroaccumulator:

This story tells about the principle of action of the accumulator:

And from this video you can learn about how to calculate the capacity of the accumulator:

Water level sensor - alternative to dry running relay

Such sensors are mounted in reserve tanks, as well as in the case of wells / wells. In our case, we consider the float sensor, although there is its analog - electronic.

The float sensor is of two types:

1. On emptying (this sensor prevents dry running of the pump).
2. On filling (this sensor prevents water overflow).

In our case, the sensor for emptying is just the right option to completely eliminate the dry running of the pump:

The principle of operation is simple: when there is liquid in the container, the float sensor is at the top, when lowering the level, so that the circuit of the electrical network is disconnected, the sensor is lowered. As a result, the pump will be completely shut off. It will not turn on until the level is restored to the required indicator, and the sensor again gives a signal to turn on.

To prevent the pump from running empty, the float cable is connected to the phase wire break.

Video: float protection of the pump against dry running

Water pressure switch to control pump operation

The pressure switch consists of two elements: one hydraulic, the other electric. In the hydraulic part there is a membrane. It presses on two springs (small and large). Due to this, a signal is given to turn on / off the pump. As for the electrical part, here is a group of contacts that close / open the electrical circuit, for more details, see the diagram:

It is worth noting that the relay is available in two types:

• electronic;
• mechanical.

Considering that the mechanical relay is cheaper, it is more often used when arranging water supply systems.

Pressure Switch Connection Diagram

Based on its structure, it becomes clear that the connection takes place in two stages, first to the electrical part, then to the water supply. This device does not need to be moved, for this reason its installation is carried out permanently. Consider how to make the connection to the electrical and to the water supply.

We connect the electrical part

This is not necessary, but it is better to organize a separate electrical line for the pressure switch, so there is a greater likelihood that it will last longer. To do this, the wire is fed to the switchboard, and an individual RCD is mounted.

When connecting a pressure switch, it is imperative that grounding is required This is explained by the fact that this device combines water and electricity, which is already unsafe.

Inside the relay there are 3 pairs of contacts, each of which has its own purpose:

1. Grounding
2. To connect the zero and phase wires from the control panel.
3. For wires from the pump.

Connection is carried out according to the scheme from the manufacturer.

We connect to the water supply

The easiest and most affordable way to connect a pressure switch to a water supply system is to install a special adapter, which has the necessary outlets. For this purpose a five-pin connection is used, see the connection diagram:

Connects to this fitting: pressure gauge, hydroaccumulator, pump, exit to the water supply network inside the house and the pressure switch itself. Thanks to the pressure gauge, it will be much easier to monitor the pressure in the system and regulate the relay.

This connection scheme has its advantages. Water will flow into the house, bypassing the hydroaccumulator. First, the water will flow into the taps, and only then the tank will be filled.

Video: pressure switch connection

Relay adjustment

We consider the adjustment process using the RDM-5 pressure switch model as an example:

In it it is possible to carry out individual adjustment under this or that plumbing system. As a rule, the new (factory) relay has standard settings, it has a minimum pressure threshold of 1.5 atm, and a maximum threshold of 2.9 atm. If it is not necessary, these indicators can be independently reset.

As we said above, the relay has two springs - small and large. So, the adjustment is carried out by tightening the nuts on the springs. If the nuts are loosened, the pressure drops, if tightened, the pressure increases. One turn of the nut is on average 0.6–0.8 atm. For this reason, do not turn them much.

Pump classification для увеличения давления воды

The technical characteristics are distinguished according to which the pumps are distinguished:

• operation mode;
• cooling principle;
• application.

Pump and pumping station: advantages and disadvantages

The pump and pumping station have their own characteristics, which are noted in the table:

Pumping station: principle of operation

As for the pumping station to increase the pressure, for its implementation requires a lot of effort. However, the result of the increase in water pressure in the pipeline will be impressive. So, for its implementation will require additional equipment:

• relay to control the system;
• centrifugal pump;
• hydroaccumulator.

When using it, the consumer uses the water that accumulates in the hydroaccumulator. Its use completely eliminates the possibility of pressure surges. You will be able to use the water, even if the water supply is interrupted. The work of the pumping station is regulated by a relay. If the pressure drops, the pump shuts off.

Types of pumping stations

All pumping stations are divided into 2 types:

• ejector with a remote or built-in ejector;
• no ejector.

As for the ejector, they are equipped with a jet-centrifugal pump (self-priming). Models with a built-in ejector are less sensitive to the presence of air in the system and provide high water pressure. Minus - the inability to raise the water from great depths and loud noise during operation.

To raise water from a depth of 20 meters or more, you will need a station with a portable ejector. This pumping station can be placed at a remote distance from the well to 40 m. If we talk about the shortcomings, this is a high sensitivity to dirty water and the presence of air in the system.

As for non-ejector pumps, a special multi-stage design is used for water supply. Her work is virtually silent. This pump consumes less power. However, the depth of absorption is not more than 9 meters.

Pumping stations are divided by the type of tank used:

• Cumulative. The tank is mounted separately from the station, mounted under the ceiling, installed in the attic and the like. Such a drive is practically not used today, as it is heavy, presents a risk of flooding and does not provide sufficient head.
• Diaphragm tank. Capacity is mounted in the basement, as the water level is regulated by the battery. The tank is small. Mostly used for shallow wells.

In addition, pumping stations are divided by water source:

• Deep. The presence of a reliable case. The device can be completely immersed in water.
• Submersible. The ejector is placed on top, and the hose is lowered into the water. However, this pump can be used when the water is located no deeper than 9 meters.

What to look for when choosing a device

If you have already come to the purchase of a pump to increase the pressure, then it is important to pay attention to several important parameters:

• pipe diameter cross section;
• maximum power and pressure output;
• performance;
• what noise level is produced during operation;
• for which plumbing systems can be used hot / cold water;

Be sure to consider the fact that the pump you bought, on average, can increase the water pressure up to 4 atm and up to 40%. Therefore, their use is possible under conditions of constant pressure of water in the pipeline of 1.5 atm.

Among other things, you should determine the quality of your wiring. Often, a newly installed pump is not able to deliver the required pressure due to low voltage. Therefore, it may be necessary to conduct an individual line.

Important technical specifications

The table below lists some technical specifications that you should definitely pay attention to when choosing a pump:

Booster pump models

Now consider the models and features of various water pumps that can be used to increase the pressure. It is also worth noting that prices in each separate region of our country may slightly differ:

Video: features of booster pumps

Independent installation of an overpressure pump

The technology of mounting the pump to increase the pressure is practically no different from the installation of a conventional circulation pump. The work process consists of several successive stages:

1. Choosing the right location for the pump and accumulator.
2. Installation of the hydroaccumulator.
3. Installation of pipes for connection.
4. Fastener pump.
5. Strapping pump and hydroaccumulator.

Such a pump set, in fact, resembles a conventional pumping station.

So, the work takes place in this order:

• First of all, fix the household pump in the selected place, some pump models need to be mounted only horizontally, so be sure to consider this parameter.
• Install the hydroaccumulator.
• Given that the pump is mounted on the supply of water, then immediately upon entering the house is installed a check valve.
• Already after the line connects the pump to increase the pressure.
• Next, the crosspiece is connected; a check valve is also mounted in the direction of the pump.
• The remaining 3 outputs on the crosspiece will be directed to the accumulator, the pump control relay and towards the water sources.
• All electrical connections must be as tight as possible.
• This system can be equipped with a stationary pressure gauge to measure the water pressure in the system.
• An individual RCD is installed on the control system (relay).

The principle of this connection is based on the scheme below:

It is important to take into account some of the nuances if you are working in a private apartment. At the input must be installed crane. Immediately before starting work it should be blocked. When installing the booster pump, do not confuse the direction of the arrows, which should be directed away from the feed.

All connections should be as tight as possible to avoid leakage of water and pressure. Therefore, carefully pack each joint. Other details of the editing work can be found in the proposed video for this article. You will learn how to install pumping equipment with automatics on your own.

So, we have considered with you the issue of increasing the pressure in the water supply system from different sides. Of course, all situations cannot be described. If you have other experience in this field or have remembered other nuances of work, be sure to write comments on this article.

Video: installation features of the pump to increase the pressure