How to make a bath out of the bar yourself - step by step

28-01-2018

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The bath made of a bar is much lighter than a log, and accordingly, the installation process will be easier. Unlike a log, a timber has an affordable price. In the article we will tell how to build a bath from a bar with our own hands, we will give step by step instructions, drawings, photos and video materials.

Project creation

The first step in construction is the design. A decision must be made regarding the design features of the bath. This may be the simplest one-story project or a house with an attic, or a sauna can be equipped with a cozy veranda. Also pay attention to the choice of timber, as it is profiled, planed or glued.

In the design process, it is determined how much space there will be in the building, and what should be their size. The main indicator of the durability of the bath is a quality foundation. Therefore, at the design stage, it is necessary to create a scheme for the foundation of the structure.

Russian bath consists of a steam room, a waiting room and a vestibule.

For each person in the steam room should be provided about 4 m.².

It is also worth determining the location of the furnace. Its foundation must be laid simultaneously with the main foundation.

What kind of wood is better to build a bath

The quality of the timber will depend on the durability of the bath. You should pay attention not only to the quality of the wood itself, but also to the period of the year when it was harvested. Timber used in the construction process should be stockpiled in the winter. Then the tree is set aside so that it has a period of shelving. Its duration is 1 month. Only then can the material be processed in accordance with all requirements.

For the bath should use a bar that does not even have microcracks. The fact is that in the process of shrinkage of the log house, they can cause the collapse of the wood. Building material with bluish spots and a wormhole cannot be used for the construction of a bath.

Breed tree also plays an important role.

The lower row is recommended to lay out of larch, and the remaining rows can be replaced with a bar of any coniferous species. This is simply explained: the larch does not rot. Over the years, it only improves its performance, becoming stronger and harder.

Laying the foundation for the bath - the main options, construction technology

Foundation construction stages:

For the manufacture of a columnar foundation, initially should be placed on the perimeter and the corners of the pillars. The distance between them should be about 2 m. It is usually made of brick. Under each pillar, you need to pour a pad of concrete.
For the arrangement of the strip foundation, pour concrete around the perimeter of the future structure, in accordance with the soil freezing index. The depth of the pit can vary from 55 to 70 cm. It is necessary to additionally warm the foundation from all sides.

Whatever type of foundation you choose, you should lay two layers of waterproofing material. In this role may be ruberoid. The part of the foundation that protrudes above the blind area must be at least 15 cm, and the width must exceed the width of the timber by 10 cm. When pouring the foundation, we must not forget about the mortgages from the reinforcement. This is necessary for the subsequent attachment of the foundation with the first salary.

We recommend reading the article about building the foundation for a bath in the article: http://kakpravilnosdelat.ru/fundament-dlya-bani-svoimi-rukami/

Bookmark crown crowns - highlights

When assembling a bath, you should have no difficulty, even if the construction is completely improvised. The secret of success lies in the accuracy of the work. Do not rush to finally fix the crowns. Pre-check the flatness of the timber horizontally. For this you need to use a level.

The weight of the walls and roofs will rest on the first row of the bars, so they must be the thickest compared to the next. The recommended section of the first row of bars - 20 × 20 cm. Subsequent may be 15 × 15 cm. Their length should be completely the same.

Laying the first salary of a log house begins with the placement of thin strips of wood on the base. All of them must be pre-treated with an antiseptic. Their thickness is about 1.5 cm, and the distance can vary from 25 to 30 cm. Holding this event protects the bars from rotting and moisture penetration. So, increase the life of your building. Mezhreyechnoe space should be filled with insulation or foam.

Timber should not be laid too tight, because over time the bath will give the necessary shrinkage. For the treatment of the first row, you can use machine oil or a modern antiseptic preparation.

Ways to build walls

When building walls, first lay the crowns, which should be leveled, and then fastened with pins or metal pins. Pre-make holes for them with a diameter perfectly matching the diameter of the mounting pins. The distance between the fasteners should be 1.5 m. The hole should pass through the bar on top and capture the half lying below. Into the holes, drive in the pins, which are equal to the height of two bars. Now carry out the laying of insulation. Lay the top layer in place.

In this way all the wreaths should be laid, except for the last two upper ones. The latter should not be tied together. At the end of construction, they will need to be temporarily removed to install the ceiling beams.

The fastening of timber can be carried out in another way, for example, using submerged nails - not having caps. Ordinary nails can not carry out this process, because over time they spoil the wood with rust.

Wooden dowels can also serve as fastening elements for timber, their section should be 18 × 18 mm. The length also depends on the size of the beam, but should not exceed 25 cm. Pre-drill holes in the bars, equal to a diameter of 21 mm, and then drive the dowels into them. They must be installed in a checkerboard pattern. Drill through the timber.

In order to avoid the slightest deformation and the formation of cracks in the bars, as a fastener for the structural elements of the walls, use the force spring assembly. It looks like a screw with a compressive spring embedded inside. The fastening system does not allow for the appearance of gaps, due to the strong pressing of the bars to one another.

Jute, tow or moss can act as an inter-coat insulator. These materials do a good job with their thermal insulation tasks.

Due to the fact that jute is unwound gradually in the process of laying, it is convenient to work with it. It is easy to fasten it to the bars, for this you can use a stapler or nails.

When insulating inter-linen space with jute, there is no need to caulk (to fill the gaps in the walls of the bath) with the insulation at the end of the shrinkage period. However, if the bath was insulated with moss or tow, you will have to caulk all the cracks formed. For this, a caulker, a hammer and a wooden shovel are used.

Door and window openings

You can install window and door frames either during the walling process or after construction is completed. Leave the gaps between the bars in places where later there will be window and door openings. When the walls are ready, you can cut through the opening of the required size. To do this you need a chainsaw.

Installation of boxes in the process of building walls can be risky, because over time the wooden structure will shrink.

Now you should prepare the walls for the shrinkage period. On top of the last rims of the walls lay a series of boards having a thickness of up to 5.5 cm. Then cover them with roofing material or slate. So, the bath should be left for six months.

Which of the following tips do you consider important? Maybe you are ready to share your experience? Then write comments to the article.