How to install a bimetallic radiator

16-05-2018

Useful

Having thought of making repairs in an apartment or in a private house, many people pay attention to the fact that old cast iron batteries do not fit into the interior. But it's not just beauty, because the old battery can be hidden behind a beautiful screen. Most often, the need to replace batteries arises from the fact that new radiators not only work more efficiently, but also save fuel consumed for heating. This article will discuss how to install a bimetallic radiator, without resorting to the services of qualified professionals. By doing this work yourself, you can not only save on installation, but also transform the room.

Device and features

A distinctive feature of a bimetallic radiator is its device - it is made of two types of metals. At the base is the core (made of steel or copper), through which the coolant passes. An aluminum shirt is placed over the core.

When choosing bimetallic radiators, it is necessary to clarify whether they are not “semi-metal”, the internal channels are made of steel pipes, and the rest is aluminum. Such radiators are less durable, not resistant to water hammer and do not withstand high pressure.

Bimetallic radiators are different:

high strength;
resistance to high pressure hot water (up to 30 atm.);
long service life (over 20 years);
short center distance, which contributes to a more efficient heating of the room;
used in the manufacture of high-strength material resistant to mechanical stress.

Vertical tubes of radiators have a small diameter, so that the volume of coolant required for the operation is significantly reduced.

It is also worth mentioning that radiators, despite their external similarity, may differ in price. This is due to the fact that in cheaper systems noise may appear due to the fact that steel and aluminum are heated simultaneously. More expensive radiators are coated with a polymer coating that can significantly muffle such sounds.

Determine the number of sections

In order for the room to have a comfortable temperature, and at the same time the boiler did not work at the limit of its capabilities, it is necessary to perform simple calculations so that you can figure out how many sections are required for each room. It is necessary to find out the area of the room and the power of a separate section of the heater.

The area of the room we learn by multiplying 3 sides - width, length and height.
The power of the radiator is indicated in the passport of the product.

Calculation example

For example, a room has dimensions of 3? 4? 2.6 m. By multiplying these numbers, we get 31.2 m³.
Conventionally, we assume that each section of a bimetallic radiator has a power of 200 watts.
For convenience of calculations, we divide the power by 100: 200/100 = 2.
Now the area of the room is divided by the resulting figure: 31.2 / 2 = 15.6.
The resulting figure is the result, which reflects the number of sections required for installation in the room.
Since it is unrealistic to acquire 15.6 sections, we round the figure up. The result was 16 sections.

The above calculation of the number of sections for a room implies that the walls are warm and the windows are not blown. Otherwise, the number of radiator sections will have to be increased.

Location

When performing work, it is necessary to use SNiP 3.05.01-85, which contains standards for internal sanitary engineering systems. Let us consider in more detail these norms and requirements:

The radiator must be installed at some distance from the wall (3-5 cm). If the device is installed too closely, there will not be good air circulation, as a result of which its efficiency will be lower.
The radiator distance from the floor should be within 10 cm, and 8–12 cm from the edge of the sill, otherwise the efficiency of heat exchange will decrease.

Radiators come in different heights, so when choosing a product, you need to consider the distance from the window sill to the floor.

Installation of radiators

It is clear that the work will require tools:

set of wrenches;
roulette;
perforator;
simple pencil;
hammer;
Bulgarian.

If the entire pipeline has not been replaced, then it is necessary to clean the communications through which the coolant will circulate and install a filter on the supply riser.

Installation of bimetallic radiators takes place in the following sequence:

According to the plan, it is necessary to make markings on the walls, marking the places where the brackets will be located, at such a distance from each other that they are located between the battery sections.
On the marked marks with a perforator, holes are drilled and the mount is installed.
If the radiator is purchased disassembled or it needs to be increased, then, armed with a radiator key, you need to connect the sections, remembering that on the one side there is a left thread, and on the other right.
The radiators are mounted on the hooks, and their horizontal position is checked by the building level.
Now you need to connect the inlet and outlet communications with the heating system.
The valves are installed valves.
At the top of the radiator, you need to install an automatic Mayevsky tap that will release air from the battery.
After installation, the system is filled with water and checked for tightness (pressure testing can be performed).

On a note

Bimetallic radiators are not recommended to close the screen, as it will significantly reduce the heat transfer device. In addition, if automatic regulators are installed, they will be triggered by a temperature change under the screen, and not indoors.
If you need to install more than ten sections for space heating, you do not need to combine them into one battery. The efficiency of this assembly will be sensitive lower than two batteries with the same number of sections.
If the air is too often forced out of the system, then this may be a sign of a malfunction (the tightness of the boiler or radiator is broken).
Installation work is best done at that time of year when there is no heating.

Video

See how you can independently install a bimetallic heating radiator on metal pipes without using welding: