Gate do it yourself

05-08-2018

Useful

Planning to make a gate with your own hands, it is impossible not to take into account the existing fences and gates. Depending on what construction materials were used for their construction, you need to choose the material for the gate.

Types of wickets

The main types of gates are:

wooden gate,
a gate from a professional flooring,
metal gate.

Everything you need to make a wooden gate

The most common option is a wooden gate. The hands that make quite simple. Its cost is low, even when using high quality boards. If you purchase less expensive boards of coniferous trees, the gate will be even cheaper.

For a wooden gate you will need:

10-11 boards, size 200x14x2 cm;
two boards of 200x15x5 cm;
doorknob and latch, canopy awnings;
mounting material - about 40 screws;
antiseptic for processing wood;
wood primer and varnish;
cement, sand and water to make a concrete solution.

From the tools you will need:

plane, chisel, hammer, hand drill;
screwdriver, drill, pencil, tape measure, construction level and material for sanding (numbers 25-16 for the first stage, and 10-9 for the final stage of processing).

Manufacturing and installation of a wooden gate

Initially, you need to install support columns. They are driven in at a distance not much larger than the planned width of the gate. The standard width of the gate is 1 m, and the height must be at the height of the whole fence.

Support pillars of asbestos cement are buried in the ground to a depth below the freezing level, with compulsory concreting.

It is necessary to attach the sidewalls of the gates to the prepared and installed asbestos-cement pillars with self-tapping screws - wooden beams with a fence height.

After preparing the support pillars and sidewalls, you can proceed to the manufacture of the gate itself. First, the boards need to be treated with antiseptic. It will protect the wood from the influence of temperature changes and precipitation, prevent rapid decay or damage to the tree. After that, the boards are laid out on a flat surface in the form of a gate, observing the required width and height. Two crossbars are packed across them - from the top, departing from the edge at least 20-30 cm, and from the bottom at the same distance. For greater rigidity, and therefore strength, it is also necessary to fill the strut - part of a small wooden bar, placing it along the diagonal of the wicket leaf - from the beginning of one crossbar to the end of another.

In order for the gate to work, that is, to open and close, you need to attach the gate loops both on the sidewall and on the gate itself. Metal hinges are susceptible to corrosion, so it is necessary to lubricate them from the inside with grease and from the top - with bitumen varnish. For a longer wicket service, repeating this operation is necessary once every one or two years.

After attaching part of the hinges to the wicket and mating parts on the sidewall, you need to plant the gate on the hinges and attach the valve and handle with self-tapping screws.

Everything you need to make a metal gate

A metal gate on its own can be made from corrugated board or metal sheet.

Forged products to make their own without any experience and special equipment is almost impossible.

Building materials and tools

For the arrangement of the gate from the professional sheet will need:

metal profile to create a wicket frame, wicket canopies, fasteners;
profiled sheet not less than 1.5 mm thick;
asbestos-cement or metal pipes with a diameter of at least 10 cm;
metal corrosion protection agent - waterproof enamel paint;
metal primer;
welding machine with electrodes with a diameter of 1.6 to 5 mm; pencil, tape measure and level;
Bulgarian for metal, shovel and hand drill.

As in the case of a wooden wicket, the supporting pillars are installed. As a wicket leaf, you can use a professional sheet of the desired width. Initially, the frame is being prepared - it is connected using a welding machine - along the perimeter of the entire profiled sheet. During the welding of the metal base under the gate, a place must be provided for the mortise lock.

Unlike the frame, the profiled sheet must be fixed with self-tapping screws with a rubber gasket - its use will prevent the early destruction of the material at the attachment points.

From the upper left corner of the frame to the lower right, it is necessary to attach a boom from the same metal profile that the frame is made of.

Since the wicket from the profiled sheet on the metal frame is much heavier than wooden, the sheds should be used more powerful: for example, with a steel bearing inside.

The final step in mounting the gate will be its priming and painting.

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