Antique doors: how to make

How to restore the old shabby time door, they know many. But sometimes the style of the interior requires that it be decorated and complemented the old doors. But where to get them? And how much can they cost?

You should not even try to answer these questions, it is better to read how you can artificially age the existing or just bought canvases. Of course, we are talking mainly about wooden products. Although some methods of such finishing are suitable for other materials.

Preparation for alteration

To make the work go faster and more fun, and the quality did not suffer, before starting work, the doors must be removed from the hinges, all accessories should be removed from them and laid horizontally on an even and solid foundation.

Then they clean off the old coating. For this you can use the construction dryer and spatula. The paint softens under the action of hot air, begins to bubble and lag behind the base itself. It is easy to scrape it off with a spatula (see How to remove old paint from doors and cover it with new material).

Further we act depending on what the final form should receive the product. It is possible to fill up with a putty in the tone of the tree all the defects that are present: chips, dents, cracks. And you can do the opposite and with your own hands create the very defects that allegedly appeared over many years.

How to do it:

• Chips are made with an ax or a heavy knife, after which their edges are polished with sandpaper;
• With the help of a thin drill or sew, irregular passages are left imitated in wood by bark beetles;
• A similar effect can be achieved if old bent nails without caps and pieces of wire are scattered on the door leaf and hammered into the wood with a hammer, and then removed;
• With a thick drill you can drill through holes and fill them with a dark putty, depicting bitches darkened by time;
• To get dents, it is enough to put heavy pieces of iron - bolts or nuts - into a dense canvas bag and with an effort to beat them along the surface.

In a word, breaking is not building. Surely you will have other ideas on how to disfigure the surface.

Шлифуем

This Pay attention! If you skip this stage, the paintwork compositions will lay down and be absorbed unevenly in the wood, and the surface will be rough and rough. To achieve perfect smoothness, after the first sanding the door needs to be slightly moistened to raise the villi, and then remove them with a thin sandpaper.

Now you can go to the main stage of aging. Choose.

Morenie

Let's start with the easiest way. This is a antique door finish using a special stain technique. It should be of two types: water-based and solvent-based.

The work consists of the following steps:

• First coloring. For it uses a water-based stain.

• Wash. Immediately after dyeing, without waiting for the layer to dry, take a wet rag or sponge and wash off the stain. But not entirely. Usually, the corners, panels, depressions and cracks, as well as the edges of the boards, are left untouched if the door is plank. But from the middle of their tint wash off.

• Processing of separate sites. To give the product a relief and expressiveness, you can shade chipped, indentations and edges in a darker color using a thin brush.

Council If, for the sake of a small amount of work, you do not want to buy a tool of the desired color, you can replace it with a strong solution of potassium permanganate, coffee, tea brewing.

• Second staining. The second continuous layer of stain based on white spirit or other solvent is applied after the door has dried completely.

• Consolidation of the result. To preserve the effect, the product must be covered with a colorless varnish or antique wax.

In this way, it is possible to finish both old-style wooden balcony doors and furniture facades. It is suitable for products covered with veneer. They will look like faded, but retained the old coating in the grooves and some places.

Drawing "traces of time"

What will happen if a wooden door is used for a long time, but does not update the coating? That's right - the paint on the protruding parts will be erased. And if you do not use it, a peculiar patina, patina can form on the surface. These changes can be simulated.

Scuffs

It would seem, what is simpler: to paint the canvas and even tear off the paint with the sandpaper in some places? You can do so, but you will not achieve the desired effect.

It is better to do otherwise:

• Prepare the door, as described above, and prime;
• After drying the primer paint the canvas. It is possible not entirely, but only those areas where attritions are supposed;
• When the paint dries, rub some areas with paraffin, then cover the entire canvas with the paint of the primary color - darker or lighter than the previous one;

• Wait for the paint to dry again and remove it with a spatula from the places that were coated with paraffin.

This method is often trimmed furniture and antique doors in the style of Provence, which is characterized by light natural shades, so the paint chosen pastel colors.

But there can be no strict rules, so you are free to use any color and in any sequence.

Patinated

The creation of a “raid of olden times” is performed by various technological methods. If everything is done correctly, then you need to use a special composition - patina. But she is dear. At home, you can use the easiest way, a brief instruction is given in the table.

For example, taken door trim. By the way, when aging you should not forget about it, and about dobori and other door frames, otherwise the canvas in it will look ridiculous.

Paint the part in the main color of any selected composition. It can be paint on any basis, and stain. The main thing - to apply it smoothly, without streaks, streaks and stripes. Give the coating to dry well.
Apply a thin layer of patina or liquid paint of a different shade to the dried surface with a brush. It is necessary that it penetrated into all structural and decorative depressions of the product.
As soon as the paint begins to dry, we erase it from the surface. It will partially be removed only from smooth convex parts, but will remain in the recesses.

Council It is very convenient to remove the top layer with a special metallized sponge - adhesive tape-bright. It is quite possible to replace it with the reverse hard side of an ordinary sponge.

Cracking

When the doors are old, repeatedly painted, the coating on them often cracks, creating an artistic cobweb. But it’s not at all necessary to wait for the appearance of such cracks, they can be done in just a couple of hours.

The technology for creating cracks is called crackle, and the compositions that promote their appearance are craquelure. As a rule, these are varnishes with special properties. Ingredients in their composition break the paintwork applied on top of it or the bottom layer.

Different varnishes act differently, they are one-step or two-step, so before applying you need to read the instructions:

• The easiest way to use a one-component composition lies in the fact that the craquelure is applied to the dried colorful coating with a thin layer, and it cracks under the action of the active components.
• Another method involves applying a craquelure between two layers of different colors.. In this case, the upper layer is broken, and in the cracks the lower layer peeps.

Crackle method can be used to decorate not only wooden, but also antique iron doors. And also combine it with other ways of aging. See examples:

If you wish, you can do without special trains, and get a similar result using other means, most of which can be found in any home:

• PVA glue. Glue is applied to the canvas with a thick layer and, without letting it dry, paint it with acrylic paint. Then the painted product is dried with a building dryer. Under the action of hot air paint glue cracked.

• Vinegar. Regular table 9% vinegar, if it is poured on a freshly painted coating, will also lead to cracking.

• Gelatin, egg white. When covering the door leaf with raw protein or brewed gelatin, it is not paint that will crack, but the coating itself. Therefore, the effect will be, but not so pronounced.

• Aluminum powder. It is also called silver. The door is coated with varnish and after 20-30 minutes they begin to dry with a hairdryer. Too fast drying will cause the composition to lose its integrity, the varnish will be covered with cracks. They need to gently rub the powder, and sweep away the excess.

Whatever method you use, the result needs to be fixed. Therefore, after the final drying, the canvas is opened with a colorless varnish.

Brushing

The brushing is the structuring of wood, the removal of softer fibers from its upper layer, as a result of which the surface becomes raised. The doors and other products trimmed with this method look amazing and almost never differ from the really ancient ones.

But it is not suitable for all types of wood. Oak, pine, larch, spruce, walnut and ash are considered suitable. But maple, beech, alder, juniper, pear or cherry are not brushed.

There are three ways to brush: mechanical, chemical and thermal.

Mechanical brushing

For it you will need a hard metal brush or drill with the same nozzle, a hard brush, chisel and sandpaper.

• The wooden part is laid on a flat stable surface and fixed. Then with effort it is cleaned with a metal brush until the relief depth seems to be sufficient. Processing is done strictly along the fibers, otherwise the transverse scratches will spoil all the beauty.

• Using the chisel, you can select deeper grooves in some places, make chipped edges, but this is not necessary.

• After finishing the brushing, the wood dust is thoroughly swept with the help of an ordinary stiff brush. And then the product is covered with a dark stain.

• Grind the dried surface using sandpaper No. 60 (for pine) or No. 80 (for oak). The purpose of this treatment is to partially discolor the base, leaving all grooves and indentations dark.

• Remove the dust and slightly wet the surface so that the remaining fine fibers will rise. And again we grind, but already zero for giving of smoothness.

• We apply a finishing decorative coating - oil, varnish or wax to fix the result and increase the practicality of the door.

In general, after machining, you can decorate the door in any of the ways listed above. Especially effective will look patinated and stained.

Chemical brushing

For mechanical brushing, you need to be a physically strong and resilient person, since this is a very laborious operation. But the work can be facilitated by treating the tree with chemicals that soften soft fibers before brushing.

These are special preparations based on caustic alkali or acid, but some household products have a similar effect. For example, liquids and gels for cleaning plumbing. They are applied to the surface, not sparing, and leave until the wood does not change color.

Council Chemical brushing should be done outdoors or in a well-ventilated area, using personal protective equipment for the skin and respiratory organs. The price of the question is your health.

Then the chemistry is washed off with water, and the wood is treated with acetic acid to neutralize the residual alkali. Then everything is as described above: scrubbing with a stiff brush and decorative trim. But it will be much easier to work.

The only drawback of the method is gray wood. Therefore, it is used only in those cases when the door is supposed to be painted with opaque covering paints.

Thermal brushing

Loose layers of wood under the influence of open fire burn faster dense. This is also good for us, and you can also save on the wood stain, as the charred wood gets a darker shade.

But let's not waste unnecessary words, but simply show how thermal brushing is performed using the example of a small plank.

• We burn the surface with a blowtorch, trying to do it evenly, without burning the array too deep. The degree of firing can be any, you choose it yourself.

• Now we take the brush again and clean out the burnt soft layers. We act until the tree structure affected by fire does not appear.

• Scrape the surface, sweep dust out of the grooves, and evaluate the result.

• If you don’t like the result, turn the part over and continue working with the brush in a different direction. But always only along the fibers. Then repeat the steps from the previous paragraph.

If you wish, you can repeat everything from the very beginning - from roasting, until you achieve the desired effect.

Council Burned wood is preferably treated with a flame retardant.

In conclusion, as usual, we open the door with varnish or apply another protective coating. And in order to give your door a finished look, it is advisable to choose the appropriate fittings for it: overhead forged hinges, bronze handles, etc.

Conclusion

We told you about the methods of aging wooden doors that are available to any home craftsman. You can complement them with painting, carving, forging, if these arts and crafts are subject to you.

If you want to learn more about this topic or visualize how the transformation of a new door into an old one, see the video in this article.