We build a log house from a bar: step-by-step actions

Houses and cottages of timber and logs are no longer considered as a sign of failure, but on the contrary, people tend to purity of nature, and such buildings can even be compared with elite ones (of course, in a certain sense). Now we will look at how you can build a log house of 150x150 mm with a foundation and roof. Of course, we will focus on assembling the walls, and besides this, we offer a video in this article on this topic.

Nuances of construction

First of all, it should be noted that in order to start work, it is necessary to draw up a clear project plan for the house and bath from the beam, taking into account all the materials and the size of the structure being built. And, of course, answer for yourself that it is better to have a log house or a profiled beam, solid wood or glued material. In fact, there are many stages in construction, but we will analyze the most basic, and therefore, the most important ones for building a log house.

Design

To draw up a project, you will have to take into account many factors, because such a plan should be not only a drawing of the house, but also its binding to the locality, more precisely, to this section. It is important to arrange the rooms in such a way as to ensure maximum savings in heating energy (gas, electricity, wood, or coal).

For example, the children's room and the playroom are best located on the south side, since there must always be warm there, and let the so-called “cold” rooms block the house from the north or windward side.

In areas where strong winds blow, warm, most likely, will not be the south, but the leeward side, so in such cases one should be guided precisely by this factor.

You should also take into account the location of outbuildings, especially if they are related to smells - it is not desirable that such sources should be close to the windows for ventilation. It is important to consider the topography of the site, since putting the house better in its upper part - so you will reduce the load on the foundation from groundwater.

Foundation selection

To build a durable house of timber, you need to lay a solid foundation for it. For wooden structures usually use pile (screw, bored), columnar (stone or brick masonry, reinforced concrete slabs) or strip (solid, prefabricated) foundation.

For small residential buildings, outbuildings and baths, the first two options are most often used, but for a large or even a two-story house, a shallow or deep foundation is certainly needed.

For any foundation, you need to accurately transfer the ground floor plan to the site, so that the walls you build exactly coincide with the tape base or grillage. If the soil in the area is saturated, then take care of installing a cut-off waterproofing, or even a drainage system (if necessary).

Council In order for the whole structure to turn out beautiful and geometrically correct, the instruction requires strict adherence to right angles, and to determine such a value you will need a tape measure, pegs and cord (string). You hammer a peg at point B and pull a thread from it to point A 3m, and to point C - 4m and if the distance between points B and C is exactly 5m, then the angle ABC will turn out exactly 90 ?.

The walls of the bar

So, in our case, a frame of glued or solid timber will be built on a strip foundation, using all the intricacies of carpentry skills. The assembly technology in this case will not change, the price of the profile will be different. For mounting, the length of the rims is important, and the rest of the timber can be shorter than the required size, because it can always be joined.

Various types of locks are used to dock the timber, but we will now consider a few of them. For example, we will use an “oblique paw” for the corner joint, but for docking into the main wall of the partitions, we can use a “dovetail” or a “frying pan”. Corner locks, we will be on top of the metal bracket, and lay tow for strength.

• In the photo above, you can see how profiles are treated with a liquid that protects against decay, but such solutions, as a rule, do not have color, therefore, so that there are no untreated areas left, there was added stain. A salary was set on the brick base of the tape, but before that the tape was covered with roofing felt (cutting waterproofing), and the lower part of the profile for salary was treated with an antiseptic impregnator.
• Когда оклад установлен, то самое время распределить и зафиксировать своими руками лаги для пола и для этого можно использовать сечение 150×50 мм или 200×50 мм. Для больших комнат в промежутках можно ставить по две лаги, чтобы избежать прогиба досок. Для того чтобы создать удобные условия для дальнейшей работы, на зафиксированные лаги настелите временное покрытие и для этого можно даже использовать те доски, которыми позже будет устилаться пол, только их лучше развернуть, чтобы случайно не испортить лицевую сторону.

• Before you start laying the lower crown, you should cut and trim the dowels, at least for the first few rows, and since you assemble the entire structure from wood, you will be able to gradually produce dowels from its remnants. For such a connection, you should pre-drill a hole using a drill with a diameter of 20 mm, but the wedge itself, of course, will be several millimeters larger. Keep the pitch of fastenings with a distance of at least 1m, and at the corners try to come as close as possible.

• As we mentioned above, you don’t have to use exclusively solid timber throughout the entire length, especially since you will have to equip window and door openings on the wall. Short profiles are increased in the butt end with a comb, as shown in the top photo, and if there are dowels, such a bar will, in fact, be no different from solid.

• For partitions, it is not at all necessary to use a material of the same thickness as on the bearing walls, and therefore here they took a timber from a solid solid wood, with a section of 100x100 mm. Its connection with the main wall was made on the main spike or “dovetail”, as shown in the photo above. The height of the log house can be set arbitrarily - it all depends on the need and desire.

Council The bar of natural moisture is quite massive, and it is extremely difficult to lift it to the top. Therefore, you can make such a device, as in the top photo and raise the profile on the upper rows with the help of ropes.

To save material, you can build from a semi-bar, because you can always insulate the wall additionally. Also, this budget option is used for outbuildings, but if you plan exterior decoration of the building, then this option may even be the only correct one.

Roof

Upon completion of the walls, ceiling beams are installed on them, and a temporary covering is laid so that you can move around without insurance - in principle, the same thing is repeated as for the floor. Most often for such buildings is a gable roof.

Для стропил, коньковой балки, стоек и подпор обычно используют брус 15050 мм или 200×50 мм, а также кругляк, сечением не менее 120 мм. Шаг стропильных ног обратно пропорционален  высоте конька – чем выше крыша, тем мельче шаг. В среднем это расстояние бывает от 40 до 100 см.

Conclusion

If we say that a log cabin or a profiled beam is cheaper, then the last option - a dry profiled timber will certainly be more expensive. But for the milled profile does not need lining and the whole building is going much faster, because each timber is cut in its intended purpose in advance.