How concreting of fence posts is done correctly: technology

If we talk about whether to concreting the pillars for the fence or you can just simply dig them, then in fact it all depends on the situation.

If a temporary fence is made of corrugated board, for example, then there is no sense in concreting, of course, the construction will have to be disassembled anyway.

Note! Always remember that in the case when the installation of the pillars for the fence without concreting is performed, then such simply dug-out columns cannot be properly “loaded”. The same professional flooring can still be used as a covering, but more or less serious material - it makes no sense to hang, because everything will be loose.

In a situation when in the end you want to get a really strong and durable fence, there will be one recommendation - it is definitely worthwhile to concrete.

In principle, this is advisable at least for the following reasons:

1. Save money by using short supports.. Because if the concreting of the pillars under the fence is not carried out, then you have to use supports of much greater length (for which you will have to dig deeper holes). Therefore, it is easier and cheaper to use poles for collecting standard heights and concreting them.
2. Due to the presence of a strong concrete base, the supports will be less loosened and, accordingly, the whole structure as a whole will last longer.

As for the shortcomings of the technology, then, perhaps, we can single out only one main point - this is a poor-quality installation of supports. Quite often, the masters do this work in a completely wrong way, and then they wonder why this “fence is crooked, askew, and they concreted!”. Therefore, it is very important to understand how to concretely fence the pillars.

Pay attention to the fact that you can still choose between concreting or hammering the pillars for the fence. The blocking technology is not bad in principle, only it is difficult to implement it qualitatively, that is, without the appearance of defects on the supports. Therefore, if there is no experience in such a matter, then perhaps you should not take the risk and go in such a difficult way - it is easier to concrete all the same.

Here's how we do it and we'll talk in detail.

The optimal sequence of work and the basic rules of technology

Before starting to review the installation instructions, it is worth noting that before concreting the fence posts, we will have to “turn” the whole complex of works.

This is wood processing (as an illustrative example, we take the simplest option - the supports will be wooden), and waterproofing of the pillars, and a drainage device at the bottom of the pits. As you can see, not everything is so simple.

Please note that the instruction considered below, that is, its principle, phasing, is also relevant for columns of concrete and metal. Is that the processing stage of the supports themselves is slightly different. We will treat the tree with antiseptic, but the metal will have to be coated with a special anti-corrosion primer (the concrete does not need to be treated).

So, step by step installation of supports under the fence with your own hands.

Preparatory stage

Before concreting fence posts, you need to stock up on this:

1. Props. For this, a wooden bar with a size of 50 per 100 mm, or 100 per 100 will be suitable.
2. Rubble, sand and cement for the preparation of concrete.
3. Antiseptic for pretreatment of wood. The price of this liquid is low, but there is a lot of benefit from this chemical - the tree will rot less, and no bugs will reproduce in its structure.

1. Ruberoid on a film basis to protect the lower part of the supports.
2. Expanded clay. It will be needed for the device drainage.
3. Shovels, buckets and a trough to work with the solution.
4. Construction level and long thread.

Getting started.

First, you need to cut the pillars themselves, so that they turn out to be approximately the same length (after installation, it will be possible to “fit” everything exactly - we will tell you how).

The second thing to do is to apply antiseptic on the wood, so that the liquid has managed to soak and dry before installation. Apply an antiseptic with an ordinary brush. You can do not one, but two layers - it will be more reliable.

Now the markup:

1. We define the two extreme points of the line of the future fence and drive in pegs there.
2. We stretch the thread between the pegs.
3. Now it is necessary to dig holes for all the intermediate pillars (make the depth of the hole about half a meter). The distance between them is calculated based on how wide the skin will be. But in principle, as a rule, the width of the sections is one and a half to two meters.

Tip: if at those points where you need to dig holes for the columns, concrete tapes or stone fragments of old structures are impossible to dig, then you can try diamond drilling holes in the concrete. If you use this service is not possible, then there is another option. The reinforced concrete is cut by diamond circles with the help of an ordinary grinder, and then the entire array is crushed with a sledgehammer and removed from the ground.

After the pits have been dug, sand and expanded clay are put to the bottom, which need to be compacted a little. This is a kind of drainage system - expanded clay will absorb excess moisture, in addition, through the space between the stones, excess water will go down to the sand and the ground.

In general, it remains to wrap the lower part of the boards with ruberoid and you can proceed to the installation itself.

Installation of pillars and work with concrete

That's just at this stage, everything is quite simple.

1. Knead the concrete solution in the trough, set the two extreme pillars. Adjust the vertical with the help of the level. Fill the working mixture between the supports and the ground and wait for the concrete to set.
2. We stretch two threads between the pillars - on the bottom of the supports and the top. These will be our guides, which need to be guided when installing intermediate pillars.

1. We put all intermediate supports, fill the pits with concrete, and while it is still plastic, we adjust the position of the beam relative to the vertical along threads.
2. When the concrete completely hardens, you can stretch a thread between the extreme posts along their very top and cut off the extra tops of all the intermediate supports. That is, here we are, as it were, leveling the horizontal of the installed pillars.

In principle, this is all - the installation is complete, the fence can be sheathed.

Let's sum up.

Conclusion

We understood in detail whether or not to concrete the fence posts, examined how this is done at all and what is important to consider. We hope that all this information will be useful to you in practice and you will be able to make a truly durable construction. Well, if you want to find out more information on this topic, be sure to check out the video in this article.