Choosing a foundation for aerated concrete: monolithic

The increasing popularity of aerated concrete among customers is due to its good properties, including strength and sound insulation. However, the high susceptibility to various mechanical damages forces us to more carefully select the base for this material. In this article we will choose the best foundation for aerated concrete, based on its characteristics.

What you need to pay attention

Перед окончательным выбором следует изучить все характеристики грунта, а также природные и климатические свойства участка. Кроме того, на выбор фундамента для домов из газобетонных блоков оказывает влияние их предполагаемая этажность. Пренебрежение всеми этими требованиями может привести к появлению трещин на стенах (см.также статью «Как построить фундамент для дома из газобетона»).

For laying the foundation you will need a lot of tools, for example:

• measuring;
• construction;
• communication.

In addition, it is also necessary to acquire materials for creating formwork and frame.

Note! Never make a foundation of aerated concrete blocks, their strength does not allow it.

Monolithic reinforced concrete slab

The most effective will be just such an option, due to which various shrinkage deformations are minimized. Whatever fluctuations in the soil occur, such a foundation will move in tune with it, as a result of which the house will remain intact.

In addition, the concrete slab can be used in areas with any type of soil. This design can not lose its characteristics even in harsh climatic conditions.

How to do it

Below is a step-by-step process instruction:

1. The first step in the installation of such a foundation is the implementation of land works and marking of the territory. This process is not too laborious, since the depth of the pit does not exceed 200-300 mm. It is necessary to lay a sand pillow on its bottom.
2. After that, it must be sealed with an electric rammer and sprinkled with water.

Tip: the tamper should be continued until no traces of soles remain on the cushion.

1. The next step is the installation of the introductory parts of communications, including plumbing, sewage.
2. We recommend using a 100 mm thick cement strap to protect the sand cushion.. After this, the formwork is assembled by hand, which is insulated with insulating sheets on the sides.
3. After complete curing of the screed, waterproofing is applied on its top layer.. You do not need to forget about the preservation of the tightness of the seams. The most effective option in this case would be to use a two-layer waterproofing, as the first layer of which is used the usual film of polyethylene.

1. Installation of the frame of the reinforcement is also carried out in two levels.. In this case, the spacing of the components of the reinforcement should not exceed 40 cm.

After completing the assembly of the frame, you can proceed directly to the pouring of concrete, after which you need to wait to achieve the desired value of strength.

Tip: if you did not immediately make the communication channels at the base of the house, diamond drilling of the holes in the concrete will help you with a professional tool.

Tape option of the base

If the budget for the construction of the building is limited, this option will help to significantly reduce the estimated costs. At the same time, depending on the climatic conditions, such a base can be made shallow or with a deepening exceeding the level of soil freezing.

The first method can be used during the construction of single-story houses. If the floors in the house will be 2 or more, it is recommended to stay at the second option.

Tip: for poorly and mediumly toppled and non-refractory soils, shallow-depth type is suitable, for heaving - - deep.

Technology

The first step is the markup for the future building. It is worth remembering that the most suitable width of the foundation for aerated concrete of this type is 350-400 mm.

After that, at the corners of the perimeter it is necessary to install reinforcement, and also select the right angles of the future structure. Connect it with a taut line or rope. Thus, you get the external layout of the house.

Repeat all steps to obtain internal markup. Examine the elevation differences along the perimeter of the foundation and select the lowest one as a starting point. After that, dig a pit, the bottom of which should be as flat as possible, cover it with a sand pillow with a height of 150 mm.

It helps to distribute the load of the future building around the perimeter of the foundation. Tamp it well and check the level of its horizontal position, it is better to use water one.

The next stage is the manufacture of formwork, for which any available materials, including various boards, plywood trimming, may be suitable. After that, stretch the line along the entire perimeter of the building, which fixes the level of the formwork.

Tip: hammer nails into the formwork under the strip foundation must be from the inside, bending them outside. This will significantly facilitate its subsequent dismantling.

Put bricks on the bottom of the foundation pit, and on top of them reinforcing elements of the structure that need to be tied together with a special wire. To simplify the process of manufacturing a reinforcing mesh, you can use welding, but at the same time it will lose flexibility. After that, it is necessary to arrange a place for a future communication system.

Tip: if you can not get rid of old concrete structures, you will be able to cut reinforced concrete with diamond circles with the help of special equipment.

Do not forget about applying a waterproofing layer that will protect the foundation from the damaging effects of groundwater. Most often for this is used roofing material, which is placed on the bottom of the pit before pouring, and lies on the sides of the foundation after it is completely dry. However, this method is not reliable in the long term.

The second method is the use of more modern waterproofing materials. And the final stage is the pouring of concrete, after which the entire surface is leveled with a trowel. Until complete drying, the foundation requires careful maintenance, and the formwork can be removed only after a month.

Conclusion

Физические свойства материала накладывают некоторую особенность на фундамент под газобетон. Лучшим вариантом считается использование монолитной железобетонной плиты, которая защитит постройку от любых колебаний, однако цена такой конструкции может стать для многих слишком высокой (читайте также статью «Железобетонные блоки для фундамента: один из наиболее распространенных материалов»).

A cheaper option is considered a tape base, which can be installed only on solid soils. The video in this article will help you find additional information on this topic.